Days 6 & 7 - Selcuk

Day 6 - Selcuk

We woke up in Izmir at our pensiyon, and because we already purchased our train tickets, we had a little more time for breakfast. We packed our belongings and trickled downstairs and to our surprise, found a complimentary fresh breakfast at our disposal!! We ate our fresh breaky and bounced to the train station, I still couldn't believe that we only had to pay 11 Turkish Lira!! 

The train ride was pleasant and very chill, we passed through Izmir and into the countryside. Orchards, fields of corn and vegetables on either side reminded us of back home. 

We arrived in Selcuk (pronounced Sell-chook) and walked up a slight incline to Hotel Bella. We've been looking forward to this hotel and were not disappointed, greeted by smiling faces and lokum, (Turkish delight) we checked in.  After we settled into our room, we went upstairs to the beautiful rooftop patio and were met by Erdal, the owner. He proceeded to tell us of the town, it's people their history and offered us a ride to Ephesus, the reason why we came to Selcuk. It's the best preserved Hellenistic/Roman/Byzantine city. We graciously accepted. We spent 3.5 hours wandering the site, with the Celsus library and the terrace houses as the stand alone favorites. Ephesus has been rebuilt 5 times, so it houses a plethora of history throughout many an Empire. 

With a quick phone call from the bookstore, Erdal picked us up and brought us back to our room. It was time for a power nap!

We slept with the sounds of nesting storks outside of our window, and when we woke, we ran upstairs, snaked a table and drank some Efes beer and wine. Now came dinner! The Turks really know how to prepare their meats, being a butcher by trade, this was something I can really appreciate. Meat stuffed mushrooms, eggplant, Russian salads, and bean salads danced onto our table until the coup de grace: the main dish! I had the grilled lamb and Krista had the spicy kebab.  Both truculent, but mine, I have to say, was the better of the two. The best lamb I've ever tasted, we chased it down with a sugar soaked cake desert and a strong glass of Raki. Raki is the Turkish version of Ouzo or Sambuca with a twist, it doesn't get you drunk but rather stimulates you much like an Absinthe. Wow! 

Day 7 - Selcuk

The night before, at approx 10pm, Erdal informed us that the PMD Tour was available, so we immediately signed up. Priene-Miletus-Didyma are some lesser known sights but are worth the excursion out of Selcuk town. After seeing most of the important artifacts already excavated and on display at the Archeological Museum in Istanbul, it was time to see the sources! 

We boarded the mini van, among the other tourists, sat back and listened to our guide. A retired seventy something former archeologist, he delved into the history of the region, posed questions and made quirky jokes. The first stop was Priene! He jumped out of the van and expertly traversed his way 400 metres up the side of the mountain. With the ten of us in tow, he put most to shame and waited at the top. He told us the site was only 2% excavated and it used to be a port city the rich owned. It had a theatre, an agora, a temple. It was built up by the Byzantines until the days when the waters subsided and silt took over the land below.  

Next stop was Miletus and it was amazing! Among the ruins, were remnants of the bath houses, we everything could be bought...for a price. It also had a huge Amphitheatre the held over 15,000 people! We explored inside and out, found winding corridors and even a castle that was added onto the top. 

The final portion of the tour was the biggest temple of Apollo in recorded history at the site of Didyma. Still partially standing, this is a site where priests lived in and asked the advice of the oracle. The story goes, that the oracle, always a woman, lived in a room and continuously breathed in a gas that made her see the visions. These were the visions of Apollo. The site was unbelievable!

After a modest lunch, we drove back to the hotel and had a power nap, again! Being out in the middle of nowhere in 40 degree weather for hours at a time, can really knock the crap out of you!

We woke up, cleaned ourselves and sauntered into town looking for a genuine Turkish meal. I don't know how these restaurants stay open! Sometimes it seems as though there is more places to eat, than people to eat at them. We got asked to sit at a bakers dozen different places in 9 different ways. They say things like "Yes please" - "You look Hungry!" - "Best meatballs in town" and when you refuse... Watch out!! One guy called me gay with a Turkish gesture of the OK sign (don't use this sign in Turkey unless you wanna fight). We chose The Ejder Restaurant, under the shadow of the Roman Aquaduct, placed our order and waited for the meat and Efes parade to begin. Hours later, after eating like amSultan, we lumbered back to the hotel and fell asleep.