Friday, July 15, 2011

Istanbul...the first three days!

Day 1:  We arrived at Ataturk Airport in Istanbul at 3:20pm. Upon our arrival we were met by our driver Deniz, and made our way to Ekim Apartments. We were greeted by Saban the owner and then made our way out into the city. Our apartments are located within walking distance of everything on our agenda. First we walked through the Hippodrome and saw the Egyptian Obelisk and the Constantine Obelisk as well as the Kaiser Wilhelm Fountain. We then walked to the Bosphorous and made our way to the Galata Bridge where we dined on a fish platter, drank Efes beer and enjoyed our view of the Bosphorous strait, the Golden Horn and Galata tower. We dined in between continents! It was amazing!

Day 2: We woke up early only to find that this city (besides the call to prayer heard throughout the Sultanahmet district) doesn't start to function until 9am. We had Turkish Coffee and tea on a lovely cobbled back street and watched the tourists flow in. Next stop: the Hagia Sofia, AKA Ayasofya, AKA Saint Sophia. It blew our minds, we wandered up to the top section where we saw the beautiful mosaics of the Emperor Justinian (who commissioned the building)   The Virgin Mary, The Emperor Constantine, Jesus Christ and the Deisis Mosaics, Christ and the Empress Zoe and the Emperor Comnenos, Jesus Christ and the Empress Irene. The Ayasofia was built as a Byzantine church and when the Ottomans conquered Constantinople, they converted it into a mosque but did not destroy the beauty within. I doubt the Christians would of done the same, stupid Christians. We marveled at the domes, columns, buttresses and the beautiful architecture for about an hour and we saw countless jaw dropping sites: tombs, marble pots and even where a Viking carved his name in the 9th century. We walked out of the Ayasofya, crossed the street and checked out the Blue Mosque. It was built to mirror the Ayasofya and although beautiful, it pales in comparison to the Ayasofya. Shimmering blue mosaics throughout, gives it it's name and you have to take off your shoes and cover up before they let you in because it is still a place of worship.  After, we went to Topkapi Palace and spent an afternoon wandering the many rooms of it's Harem and the palace itself. We saw such items as the Topkapi dagger, encrusted with emeralds the sized of golf balls and an 86 karat white diamond among others. We weren't allowed to take pictures and I thought I might spend a day or year in jail after I was berrated for trying to do so. We ate some street food and went back to the apartment and crashed out about 9pm. 

Day 3: Went took our time waking up and went out for breakfast to a quaint little cafe called the Green Cafe where we drank Turkish coffee and Tea and enjoyed a light breakfast consisting of cheese, olives, eggs and fresh veggies. We hopped across the street and went into the Basilica or Yerebatan Cistern. In the early centuries of Constantinople, this was the underground water reservoir for the city's inhabitants and drew it's water from the the forests 25 km away via the Valens Aqua-duct. As we descended into it's depths, we were surprised how dark and cool it was, hundreds of marble columns supported the ceiling and water still remains, now the home to thousands of fat fresh water fish. We walked down to the end where the heads of Medusa supported 2 of the columns. Certain scenes of James Bond's "To Russia with love" were filmed.     
As we stepped out into the pale sunlight, we walked to the Grand Bazaar, the oldest market in the world!! Flush with merchants saying "let me sell you something that you don't need" we purchased a few items and Krista bartered for her silk/cashmere scarf. After strolling around the covered Bazaar we attempted to find the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, and failed miserably!! But the best way to get to know a city is to get lost in it! Fortunately for us we stumbled across the University, the Sulemaniye Mosque, the Beyzit Tower and a few other sights that we don't even know the name of. We met a friend who took us to his leather shop and then we scuttled away and had an Efes beer not far away. Next we walked up the beside the Bosphorous, to the Galata Bridge and found the Spice Bazaar!!! We entered and were bombarded by the sights, smells and the sounds. We purchased some spices of course, a spice grinder and some Turkish Delight!! Mmmmmmm. Now it was time for dinner at the world famous Hamdi Restaurant!! It was the most beautiful setting for dinner...EVER!! Surrounded by the The Bosphorous, Mosques, towers, bridges of Europe and Asia, we gorged ourselves on expertly grilled meats, Efes beer and house wine. After our most excellent meal, we walked across the  Galata Bridge and into the fish markets of the Asian side in the Golden Horn. Now it was finally time for our Bosphorous Cruise!! We boarded a ferry and chugged up and down the Bosphorous Strait taking in the sights and sounds of both continents with the highlight being the big ass castle on the Asian side. Rumor has it that back in the Constantinople days they hung a huge chain from one side to the other to discourage entrance of opposing armies. What a great day!!

Day 4 is today and the plan is to take it easy but also take in he Archeological Museum and Dolombache Palace, but I'm sure we'll stumble across a myriad of other awe inspiring visuals!!

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